wave action
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- How does a wave form?
- when winds blowing across the water transmit energy to the water
- What determines the size of a wave?
-
2 things:
the strength of the wind and the length of time it blows - What is a wave?
- The movement of energy through a body of water.
- What is wavelength?
- The horizontal distance between crests of a wave.
- What is the crest of a wave?
- The highest part of a wave/
- What is the lowest part of a wave called?
- The trough.
- What is the vertical distance from the crest to the trough of the wave called?
- The wave height.
- What are the three different wave measurements?
- Wavelength, wave height and frequency.
- What are breakers?
- The white-capped waves that crash onto shore.
- What are the long low waves that travel in deep water called?
- Swells
- What happens to a wave when it nears the shore?
- As the water becomes shallower, the bottoms of the waves touch the ocean floor and friction causes the wave to slow down. Wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
- What is the pull of the water as it rushes from the beach back out to sea called?
- The undertow.
- What is a Tsunami?
- A type of wave caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor.
- Why is a ship far out at sea not even aware of a tsunani when it passes?
- Because a tsunami in deep water may have a long wavelength but a short wave height.